Care & Health
Need Help Choosing? Take The Personality Quiz!
Rabbits can easily be litterbox trained no matter the breed or age.
They can live to be 8-12 years old and more if fixed. (15+ years)
Rabbits are very sociable animals.
They make wonderful indoor pets.
Rabbits crave attention from their owners.
Most of our rabbits like to be held because of how much we work with them.
They rather sit next to you on the floor than you holding them all the time.
Rabbits love to play with various chew toys and can do tricks.
Rabbits love to chew through wood in your home as well as wires.
Rabbits are very fragile and can be easily harmed if mishandled or mistreated.
Do you know which breed is the right breed for your personality?
Take the quiz below and find out:
They can live to be 8-12 years old and more if fixed. (15+ years)
Rabbits are very sociable animals.
They make wonderful indoor pets.
Rabbits crave attention from their owners.
Most of our rabbits like to be held because of how much we work with them.
They rather sit next to you on the floor than you holding them all the time.
Rabbits love to play with various chew toys and can do tricks.
Rabbits love to chew through wood in your home as well as wires.
Rabbits are very fragile and can be easily harmed if mishandled or mistreated.
Do you know which breed is the right breed for your personality?
Take the quiz below and find out:
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Think you're bunny-ready? Take the quiz and find out!
Rabbits make the very best wonderful companions for all kinds of people.
Are you patient and playful?
Have 25 minutes of your time a day?
Do you enjoy interactions with other species besides humans?
Are you ready to spend more time with your addicting bunny than with your significant other? Bunnies do that ;)
Does your schedule include free time?
Are you confident you can care for another life?
Take the quiz below and find out:
Are you patient and playful?
Have 25 minutes of your time a day?
Do you enjoy interactions with other species besides humans?
Are you ready to spend more time with your addicting bunny than with your significant other? Bunnies do that ;)
Does your schedule include free time?
Are you confident you can care for another life?
Take the quiz below and find out:
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Feel Confident?
Take the next step and hop on over to our available bunnies! When it comes to selection, our herd is the best because we have worked very carefully and only with cute quality breeders out-of-state. We don't mind driving hours and flying for days for truly the cutest stock of the United States (We have herd of Miniature Lops smaller than Holland Lops from the UK but are not for sale at our discretion). We hold the best of the best pets in the bay area and don't breed herd from local breeders for quality reasons.
We provide the best prices throughout California. Every rabbit comes with health guarantee for as long as we extended with you. Furthermore, we provide the best rabbits and give you 100% guarantee and time to search and see for yourself!
We provide you with a lifeline. We provide courteous, effective and reliable support to everyone no matter your purchasing our rabbits or not. Not to mention our website is being updated everyday with important information that is very easy to access it. We are always a drive, phone call, e-mail or text away to further asset your questions and concerns. Doesn't matter the time or day, we are there with useful information such as: text, videos and pictures. Come on in and stop by! We love to spend time with people and their lovable bunnies to have a great time and talk.
We handle our bunnies from day one being born, we just can't resist the cuteness and show them off in social media with our colleagues and classmates from college. With this said, we are able to bond with every single one of our bunnies no bunny left behind. This allows us to provide our customers with the best bunny inside and out that best suits them. Our bunnies are paired up with various age groups to not allow them to show dominance over one another and be open to any and all situations.
Our bunnies have been tested with children, adults and other pets!
Where You Get The Bunny is Just as Important as From Who!
The following article does the thorough research for you with pros and cons on each side. With that said, we as breeders, have never tried to push any of our rabbits on anyone. We encourage people to adopt from shelters and possibly people selling mixed bunnies for a much cheaper price. Under no circumstance is anyone obligated to purchase OUR rabbits. En contraire, take your time and look around! There might be breeders within a few miles away from you that might offer other bunnies at different prices that you can settle with. We specialize in rabbits tiny in size and show quality from out-of-state Rabbitries. We love working on our stock and making them even more tiny in size. We absolutely love color.
Many of our customers purchase from us to have as pets.
We also have a closed Rabbitry policy since we moved to a new home last month of February. This is simply to protect our herd and their environment. Open Bunny House happens for many reasons: to provide you with the parents fro you to view, the available bunnies people are interested in and for an informative oral seminar for people to get knowledge on caring for a rabbit for a lifetime. Inspection of rabbits happen at Open Bunny House prior to placing any deposit on a bunny.
We also provide information of our local vets that we attend. We especially work hand in hand with Grove Way Veterinary in Castro Valley where we take in our rabbits on a daily babsis for check ups. Dr. Mofett is truly amazing and I strongly encourage anyone living in the area take a visit by his office.
We explain in great detail genetic problems if any, and with every breed we provide.
Our Yelp! Page and Testimonials is filled with recommendations from other parents dating back years ago that anyone can use as a reference. We hide absolutely nothing from our potential customers.
We also provide a lifetime support 24/7 for their rabbit's lifetime. We have answered questions through phone, in person, mail, email and in person from 6 AM to 3AM. We provide people with medicine with the limited knowledge we have!
We are part of the Holland Lop, Lionhead, Netherland Dwarf and ARBA Rabbit Associations. And we don't stop there, we also take classes at community colleges and shelter on preventing and curing rabbits.
Our Sales Term Policy is our contract. It is meant for you the buyer to read and agree with everything states on there. If there are any concerns or questions we ask they are brought up immediately. We as breeders, do not release any bunny without proper housing, feed, hay. bedding, food & water dispenser and proof of purchase. We might come off as a pain in the butt, but we do this to make sure our bunnies are going to a good home. We are in no rush to sell!
Many of our customers purchase from us to have as pets.
We also have a closed Rabbitry policy since we moved to a new home last month of February. This is simply to protect our herd and their environment. Open Bunny House happens for many reasons: to provide you with the parents fro you to view, the available bunnies people are interested in and for an informative oral seminar for people to get knowledge on caring for a rabbit for a lifetime. Inspection of rabbits happen at Open Bunny House prior to placing any deposit on a bunny.
We also provide information of our local vets that we attend. We especially work hand in hand with Grove Way Veterinary in Castro Valley where we take in our rabbits on a daily babsis for check ups. Dr. Mofett is truly amazing and I strongly encourage anyone living in the area take a visit by his office.
We explain in great detail genetic problems if any, and with every breed we provide.
Our Yelp! Page and Testimonials is filled with recommendations from other parents dating back years ago that anyone can use as a reference. We hide absolutely nothing from our potential customers.
We also provide a lifetime support 24/7 for their rabbit's lifetime. We have answered questions through phone, in person, mail, email and in person from 6 AM to 3AM. We provide people with medicine with the limited knowledge we have!
We are part of the Holland Lop, Lionhead, Netherland Dwarf and ARBA Rabbit Associations. And we don't stop there, we also take classes at community colleges and shelter on preventing and curing rabbits.
Our Sales Term Policy is our contract. It is meant for you the buyer to read and agree with everything states on there. If there are any concerns or questions we ask they are brought up immediately. We as breeders, do not release any bunny without proper housing, feed, hay. bedding, food & water dispenser and proof of purchase. We might come off as a pain in the butt, but we do this to make sure our bunnies are going to a good home. We are in no rush to sell!
Powered partly by: ARBA and http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-genetics/producing-true-dwarfs/
Should you get the bunny of your dreams from a shelter, rescue group or breeder?
Most rabbits are surrendered to shelters because of "people problems," not issues with the health or behavior of the bunny.
So you've decided to get a rabbit: you've learned what it takes to provide great care and an appropriate diet, you've bunny-proofed your house, you've found a great rabbit veterinarian, and you're ready to give one or two (or more) special bunnies the attention and exercise they need every day. But you've got one more thing to take care of: Choose where you'll get your new pet.
You don't want to buy a bunny from a pet store because most of those rabbits come from mass-breeding facilities that can be like puppy mills. So what are your options?
Animal shelters and rescue groups. When you're ready to adopt, your local shelter or rabbit rescue group should be your first stop. If they don't have the right rabbit for you now, ask to be put on a waiting list.
To locate a rescue group that specializes in rabbits, contact your local animal shelter or search online through the House Rabbit Society.
After cats and dogs, rabbits are the species most often surrendered to animal shelters. The majority of rabbits lose their homes because of "people reasons," such as a move or the owner's inability or unwillingness to care for the animal, not because the rabbit has behavioral or health problems.
In addition to shelters, there are numerous private rabbit adoption agencies that are run by people with in-depth knowledge of rabbits. Most groups depend on volunteers who provide foster care for homeless rabbits until they can find find them a home. Many rabbit rescue groups partner with local animal shelters, helping to place bunnies through their foster care networks.
When you contact a rescue group, be sure to find out as much as you can about the organization, how it cares for its animals, how it decides which animals are adoptable and what other adoption and post-adoption services are available.
There are advantages to adopting a rabbit Staff and volunteers at well-run shelters or rescue groups work hard to keep the bunnies socialized and healthy. Their hands-on experience with the rabbits will enable them to help you choose the right bunny for you. And unlike the teenage part-timers at your local pet store, the people at your local shelter and rescue group can provide detailed information on bunny care and behavior and answer questions you may have after adoption.
Adoption fees vary, but the package may include a certificate for a free vet visit or a reduced cost spay or neuter surgery (if your bunny isn't already sterilized).
It's easy to find an adoptable rabbit. To find your local animal shelter, search online or visit Petfinder.com. To locate a rescue group that specializes in rabbits, contact your local animal shelter or search online.
Buying from a breeder. If you've looked at all the local animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups and still haven't found "The One"—and you just can't wait to bring home your new rabbit—you may be wondering how to identify and locate a reputable breeder.
Learn how to identify a "good" or "reputable" breeder. Good breeders are not in the business just to make money—they don't sell their rabbits to the first person who shows up with cash in hand. A good breeder is one who is personally involved in each and every sale. He will never sell through a pet store or any other third party that doesn't allow him to meet the prospective family and make sure it's a good match for his rabbit.
Too often, unsuspecting consumers buy animals from so-called backyard breeders, people who breed their pets to make a little money on the side. They're not knowledgeable about genetics and good breeding practices, and the result is rabbits with health or temperament problems that may not be discovered until years later.
Recommendations can point you toward a good breeder. You can find reputable breeders by asking for referrals from your veterinarian or trusted friends, by contacting local breed clubs or by visiting rabbit shows.
Always visit the breeder before buying. Don't buy a rabbit without personally visiting where he or she was born and raised. Take the time now to find the right breeder and you'll thank yourself for the rest of your rabbit's life. While you're visiting, look for these basics:
Most rabbits are surrendered to shelters because of "people problems," not issues with the health or behavior of the bunny.
So you've decided to get a rabbit: you've learned what it takes to provide great care and an appropriate diet, you've bunny-proofed your house, you've found a great rabbit veterinarian, and you're ready to give one or two (or more) special bunnies the attention and exercise they need every day. But you've got one more thing to take care of: Choose where you'll get your new pet.
You don't want to buy a bunny from a pet store because most of those rabbits come from mass-breeding facilities that can be like puppy mills. So what are your options?
Animal shelters and rescue groups. When you're ready to adopt, your local shelter or rabbit rescue group should be your first stop. If they don't have the right rabbit for you now, ask to be put on a waiting list.
To locate a rescue group that specializes in rabbits, contact your local animal shelter or search online through the House Rabbit Society.
After cats and dogs, rabbits are the species most often surrendered to animal shelters. The majority of rabbits lose their homes because of "people reasons," such as a move or the owner's inability or unwillingness to care for the animal, not because the rabbit has behavioral or health problems.
In addition to shelters, there are numerous private rabbit adoption agencies that are run by people with in-depth knowledge of rabbits. Most groups depend on volunteers who provide foster care for homeless rabbits until they can find find them a home. Many rabbit rescue groups partner with local animal shelters, helping to place bunnies through their foster care networks.
When you contact a rescue group, be sure to find out as much as you can about the organization, how it cares for its animals, how it decides which animals are adoptable and what other adoption and post-adoption services are available.
There are advantages to adopting a rabbit Staff and volunteers at well-run shelters or rescue groups work hard to keep the bunnies socialized and healthy. Their hands-on experience with the rabbits will enable them to help you choose the right bunny for you. And unlike the teenage part-timers at your local pet store, the people at your local shelter and rescue group can provide detailed information on bunny care and behavior and answer questions you may have after adoption.
Adoption fees vary, but the package may include a certificate for a free vet visit or a reduced cost spay or neuter surgery (if your bunny isn't already sterilized).
It's easy to find an adoptable rabbit. To find your local animal shelter, search online or visit Petfinder.com. To locate a rescue group that specializes in rabbits, contact your local animal shelter or search online.
Buying from a breeder. If you've looked at all the local animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups and still haven't found "The One"—and you just can't wait to bring home your new rabbit—you may be wondering how to identify and locate a reputable breeder.
Learn how to identify a "good" or "reputable" breeder. Good breeders are not in the business just to make money—they don't sell their rabbits to the first person who shows up with cash in hand. A good breeder is one who is personally involved in each and every sale. He will never sell through a pet store or any other third party that doesn't allow him to meet the prospective family and make sure it's a good match for his rabbit.
Too often, unsuspecting consumers buy animals from so-called backyard breeders, people who breed their pets to make a little money on the side. They're not knowledgeable about genetics and good breeding practices, and the result is rabbits with health or temperament problems that may not be discovered until years later.
Recommendations can point you toward a good breeder. You can find reputable breeders by asking for referrals from your veterinarian or trusted friends, by contacting local breed clubs or by visiting rabbit shows.
Always visit the breeder before buying. Don't buy a rabbit without personally visiting where he or she was born and raised. Take the time now to find the right breeder and you'll thank yourself for the rest of your rabbit's life. While you're visiting, look for these basics:
- The rabbits should appear happy and healthy.
- The breeder's home and the rabbits' area should be clean, well-maintained and well-lit.
- The breeder should have a strong relationship with a local veterinarian and should provide records and references about his rabbits' care.
- The breeder should be able to explain common genetic problems.
- The breeder should be able to provide references from other families who have purchased rabbits from him.
- The breeder should be willing to serve as a resource and answer questions for the rest of the rabbit's life.
- The breeder should be involved with local, state or national breed clubs.
- The breeder should provide a written contract with a health guarantee and encourage you to read and understand the contract fully before signing. This contract should not require you to visit a certain veterinarian.
- The breeder should be just as tough on you as you are with her. She should ask you questions about your experiences with other rabbits and other pets. And she should ask for a veterinary reference.
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Urine and Environment
Keeping a clean and safe environment for your pet is not only vital but a MUST. Whether you keep your small pet indoor or outdoor, you must make sure keep them safe from predators as well as weather.
- When you change the litter, be sure to rinse the box *thoroughly* with water. Occasionally giving it a white vinegar rinse will help keep calcium residues down and control the odor. Be sure to wash the bottom of the box as well.
- Be sure there is no urine *under* the box or around the boxes in areas that are not wiped up. These get to smelling foul very quickly. If you do have a spot where the urine tends to seep in, remove the box, scrub the area thoroughly with white vinegar and rinse well with water. You might even want to bleach it, but be sure to rinse away all the bleach before you let bunny near the area.
- Line the boxes with newspaper and a rabbit-safe litter, such as CareFresh, Yesterday’s News (now available for rabbits), or Feline Pine. (Do not use clay-based or clumping cat litter which can be dangerous for bunny if consumed). Top off the litter box with a large handful or more of hay. Bunnies like to munch on hay and use their litterbox at the same time.
- CHANGE THE LITTER BOX EVERY DAY. If you line the box with newspaper, its easy to dump the waste into a trashbag for disposal or use for composting.
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To control the smell, there are natural sprays but I find Horse Stall refreshers great for absorbing the ammonia smell so your bunny won't risk being harmed. This can be purchased online or in your nearest feed store. Sprays will also work!
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules is available in 25 lb and 40 lb sizes for your convenience.
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules keeps smells and dangerous ammonia under control naturally.
This refresher is made of all natural, non-hazardous and non-toxic mineral. The mineral captures, neutralizes and eliminates harmful levels of ammonia and odors.
This unique stall refresher can also be used in litter boxes, pet habitats such as dog runs and bird cages, as well as garages, crawl spaces and garbage receptacles.
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules works well with stall mats due to its larger granule size. Due to being granular, it is also less dusty. The granular size also lends to easier pouring and scooping, too.
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules works through sticking to ammonia gas molecules to the surface of the refresher granule. When the granules dry out, the ammonia molecule is driven off the suface of the mineral as nitrogen. So, in its second life after being used as a refresher and deodorizer, Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules works well as a slow release fertilizer or composting enhancement!
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules is available in 25 lb and 40 lb sizes for your convenience.
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules keeps smells and dangerous ammonia under control naturally.
This refresher is made of all natural, non-hazardous and non-toxic mineral. The mineral captures, neutralizes and eliminates harmful levels of ammonia and odors.
This unique stall refresher can also be used in litter boxes, pet habitats such as dog runs and bird cages, as well as garages, crawl spaces and garbage receptacles.
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules works well with stall mats due to its larger granule size. Due to being granular, it is also less dusty. The granular size also lends to easier pouring and scooping, too.
Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules works through sticking to ammonia gas molecules to the surface of the refresher granule. When the granules dry out, the ammonia molecule is driven off the suface of the mineral as nitrogen. So, in its second life after being used as a refresher and deodorizer, Manna Pro® Sweet PDZ® Horse Stall Refresher® Granules works well as a slow release fertilizer or composting enhancement!
powered by: https://shopping.yahoo.com/1805844896-sweet-pdz-horse-stall-refresher-granules/?bfr=10.0
Personality & Features
Bunnies come in all shapes and size's. They also differ when it comes to one's personality. There is nothing like meeting and interacting with them personality! Come on by, I LOVE talking to people on the phone or in person about the care of a bunny and everything on bunnies! We have a set schedule that works with us working, school and rabbitry! Monday-Friday buns spend quality time with family 7AM-3PM, 3:30PM taking them out to the front yard for 2 hours of playtime, 6:00PM bunnies hangout inside our home for family dinner and movie night, 10 PM bunnies are put in cages only to sleep. Saturday-Sunday bunnies spend a fun day with mommies and daddy as well as grooming every 3 weeks in Richmond. We pride ourselves in being able to have a life outside of our rabbitry. While school and work happen early morning to early afternoon. Late afternoons, evenings and weekends are specifically dedicated to our bundles of joy. Finding that the barn be behind my boyfriends mom's house, we are extremely happy and joyful we can keep our babies safe and happy everyday morning, noon and night.
While away, we are blessed to have both our mothers and grandmothers handle and love our bunnies while gone. Not only do they enjoy doing so, but have made it part of their everyday chores to cuddle, talk to them and even clean after them everyday! Since I can remember, I have had the same bunnies. Now that we find out there's a world of bunnies out there; we want to show it to the rest of the world. We have done nothing but work hard to perfect the breed shows after shows. We feel as a family it is important to interact as much as possible with the rabbits in different situations to get them accustomed to any noise, people and animals. We carry them around while washing clothes, going to supermarket, cleaning the yard, taking the trash out, mowing the lawn and even to class with me! We feel proud when these bunnies make people turn heads and talk about how they act like "obedient children." It's hard to find this as well as rare. When receiving the best customer service, our rabbitry demonstrates honesty and fairness to any and everyone we encounter! Below is a small description of each bunny. Because all our parent bunnies are sweet and have a great temperament, it is passed down to the babies as well. Any bunny showing signs of aggression or spraying are not bred nor sold. Adopt with confidence!
While away, we are blessed to have both our mothers and grandmothers handle and love our bunnies while gone. Not only do they enjoy doing so, but have made it part of their everyday chores to cuddle, talk to them and even clean after them everyday! Since I can remember, I have had the same bunnies. Now that we find out there's a world of bunnies out there; we want to show it to the rest of the world. We have done nothing but work hard to perfect the breed shows after shows. We feel as a family it is important to interact as much as possible with the rabbits in different situations to get them accustomed to any noise, people and animals. We carry them around while washing clothes, going to supermarket, cleaning the yard, taking the trash out, mowing the lawn and even to class with me! We feel proud when these bunnies make people turn heads and talk about how they act like "obedient children." It's hard to find this as well as rare. When receiving the best customer service, our rabbitry demonstrates honesty and fairness to any and everyone we encounter! Below is a small description of each bunny. Because all our parent bunnies are sweet and have a great temperament, it is passed down to the babies as well. Any bunny showing signs of aggression or spraying are not bred nor sold. Adopt with confidence!
Gaining Your Bunnie's Trust For A Better Life
The key to a successful relationship with a pet rabbit is establishing a foundation of trust -- and lots of it. Many rabbits can be pretty meek critters, especially initially. If you put in the time and effort, however, you might just find yourself with an affectionate furry buddy a little down the line. The earlier you begin building trust, the better. Some bunnies can be shy others be bold but that's just the nature of the rabbit. They can see you as a predator, be open minded to learn about them as much as they will learn about you.
Keys To Success:
1. Tone of Voice- The way you talk to your bunny also might be effective for getting him to trust you. Always talk to him in a measured, serene and controlled voice -- not too loud, harsh or shrill. When you chat to him, avoid doing anything abruptly or quickly. Quickness can be extremely jarring and shocking to delicate rabbits.
2. Positive Reinforcement: It's no shock that food is the way to a bunny's heart, as humans are often that way, too. Begin the process of gaining your bunny's trust by keeping a wee portion of a nutritious bunny-safe snack tucked away in your hands -- think a fruit slice. Allow your bunny out of his enclosure and promptly go onto the ground, keeping your stomach against it. Then, simply wait. Encourage your inquisitive pal to come to you, but don't push the issue. Once your bunny is near you and starts smelling you, he'll soon discover that you're holding something yummy. He'll also familiarize himself with your personal scent -- a great bonding tool. Once he makes his way to the snack, keep it in your hand as he munches on it. Make a point of doing this on a daily basis. Encourage your bunny to think of you when he thinks of food -- a positive mental association.
3.Isolated Environment- Restrict your bonding exercises with your bunny to isolated, silent environments. Whether you're getting your bunny used to your smell or simply talking to him, keep the atmosphere laid-back and low-traffic. Turn the television off. Close the door. Make sure no other pets are around to bother your interplay.
4. Increased Physical Contact- As you progress in building trust with your rabbit, start to build a deeper bond by softly stroking his forehead. This usually feels good to bunnies, and as a result is a strong starting point in petting. Once you sense your bunny loosening up to the whole notion of touch, begin petting his back and holding him in a relaxed and low-key way. You can even try giving him an "Eskimo kiss" by pressing your nose lightly up against his. Remember, bunnies often find hands a lot more menacing than other body parts, such as faces.
5. Soothing Sounds- Smooth murmuring sounds often can be comforting to rabbits. If you're close to your rabbit, increase his relaxation level by murmuring faintly to him. Bunnies sometimes send messages to each other by murmuring amongst themselves, so this is familiar territory for the furry lagomorphs.
6. Loving v.s Boundaries- Always hold your rabbit in high regard. Consider his feelings and needs. Never, ever run after him, no matter what. As prey creatures, all that does is terrify them. Also never be forceful with your bunny. Let him do things at his own comfy pace. If he squirms wildly when you try to pick him up, let him go. Not all rabbits are the biggest fans of being picked up, after all.
1. Tone of Voice- The way you talk to your bunny also might be effective for getting him to trust you. Always talk to him in a measured, serene and controlled voice -- not too loud, harsh or shrill. When you chat to him, avoid doing anything abruptly or quickly. Quickness can be extremely jarring and shocking to delicate rabbits.
2. Positive Reinforcement: It's no shock that food is the way to a bunny's heart, as humans are often that way, too. Begin the process of gaining your bunny's trust by keeping a wee portion of a nutritious bunny-safe snack tucked away in your hands -- think a fruit slice. Allow your bunny out of his enclosure and promptly go onto the ground, keeping your stomach against it. Then, simply wait. Encourage your inquisitive pal to come to you, but don't push the issue. Once your bunny is near you and starts smelling you, he'll soon discover that you're holding something yummy. He'll also familiarize himself with your personal scent -- a great bonding tool. Once he makes his way to the snack, keep it in your hand as he munches on it. Make a point of doing this on a daily basis. Encourage your bunny to think of you when he thinks of food -- a positive mental association.
3.Isolated Environment- Restrict your bonding exercises with your bunny to isolated, silent environments. Whether you're getting your bunny used to your smell or simply talking to him, keep the atmosphere laid-back and low-traffic. Turn the television off. Close the door. Make sure no other pets are around to bother your interplay.
4. Increased Physical Contact- As you progress in building trust with your rabbit, start to build a deeper bond by softly stroking his forehead. This usually feels good to bunnies, and as a result is a strong starting point in petting. Once you sense your bunny loosening up to the whole notion of touch, begin petting his back and holding him in a relaxed and low-key way. You can even try giving him an "Eskimo kiss" by pressing your nose lightly up against his. Remember, bunnies often find hands a lot more menacing than other body parts, such as faces.
5. Soothing Sounds- Smooth murmuring sounds often can be comforting to rabbits. If you're close to your rabbit, increase his relaxation level by murmuring faintly to him. Bunnies sometimes send messages to each other by murmuring amongst themselves, so this is familiar territory for the furry lagomorphs.
6. Loving v.s Boundaries- Always hold your rabbit in high regard. Consider his feelings and needs. Never, ever run after him, no matter what. As prey creatures, all that does is terrify them. Also never be forceful with your bunny. Let him do things at his own comfy pace. If he squirms wildly when you try to pick him up, let him go. Not all rabbits are the biggest fans of being picked up, after all.
Powered by Noemi Millburn.
Shy Bunny? Here's Some Tips To Help Ease Bun
Bunnies are naturally shy, I have worked hard myself to get them to like being handled, sit on your palm, do tricks, cuddle and lay on their backs.
Following are a few steps you can take to win your shy rabbit's trust.
1. You and bunny should be together in a private, quiet room. No other pets. No distractions.
2. Have a little treat, such as a carrot or a tiny piece of apple, banana or a little pinch of oats in your hand. (These foods are only for small treats! Rabbits fed a diet with too much digestible carbohydrate are excellent candidates for serious gastrointestinal disorders!)
3. Lie on your tummy on the floor and let the bunny out of his "safe haven" (hutch). It's quite crucial that this hutch have a door that is accessible to the rabbit so that you don't have to lift him when you take him out or put him back in. The bunny should have absolute freedom to choose when he comes out. Don't force the issue. The bunny's natural curiosity will bring him to you.
4. Don't expect your bunny to approach you right away. Remain quiet and patient, even if it takes an hour or more. Rabbits are naturally curious, and eventually, he will come over to sniff you.
5. Resist the temptation to reach out and pat the bunny. Instead, let him sniff you, hop on you and just get to know your smell. This will teach him that you are not a threat.
6. If the bunny finds the treat you have, hold it while he nibbles.
7. Do this every day. Gradually, you can start to touch the bunny by giving him a gentle "scritch" on the forehead (bunnies love this!). Never force anything, and never chase the bunny. This will only undo all the patient sitting you have done to gain his trust. A rabbit does not generally like to play "chase" with an animal that is thirty times his size. It is simply not natural behavior for him, and it is not a sign of low intelligence!
8. As the bunny gradually becomes less shy, you can become more familiar with him, stroking his back, letting him lie with his side pressed against your arm...whatever feels comfortable and natural to both of you. Many rabbits seem to find a face less threatening than a hand. Your bunny may gladly allow you to give him a warm "nose nuzzle" (especially if you hum very low and soft; this is the way rabbits sometimes communicate among themselves), even if he won't let your hand come close.
9. Once the bunny learns that you are a friend, he will bond very strongly to you. It's important to have him neutered (or her spayed, if it's a girl) once s/he reaches sexual maturity, because otherwise s/he'll want to make love to everything, including you--whatever appendages happen to be within reach. Spay/neuter will stop this behavior, and it will eliminate the very real risk of reproductive tract cancers in females. Spay/neuter will also make litterbox training easier and more reliable.
I hope you found this useful, please take into consideration rabbits are not a toy. They are a lifelong and loyal companion that add happiness to any family that seeks one for a lifetime.
Following are a few steps you can take to win your shy rabbit's trust.
1. You and bunny should be together in a private, quiet room. No other pets. No distractions.
2. Have a little treat, such as a carrot or a tiny piece of apple, banana or a little pinch of oats in your hand. (These foods are only for small treats! Rabbits fed a diet with too much digestible carbohydrate are excellent candidates for serious gastrointestinal disorders!)
3. Lie on your tummy on the floor and let the bunny out of his "safe haven" (hutch). It's quite crucial that this hutch have a door that is accessible to the rabbit so that you don't have to lift him when you take him out or put him back in. The bunny should have absolute freedom to choose when he comes out. Don't force the issue. The bunny's natural curiosity will bring him to you.
4. Don't expect your bunny to approach you right away. Remain quiet and patient, even if it takes an hour or more. Rabbits are naturally curious, and eventually, he will come over to sniff you.
5. Resist the temptation to reach out and pat the bunny. Instead, let him sniff you, hop on you and just get to know your smell. This will teach him that you are not a threat.
6. If the bunny finds the treat you have, hold it while he nibbles.
7. Do this every day. Gradually, you can start to touch the bunny by giving him a gentle "scritch" on the forehead (bunnies love this!). Never force anything, and never chase the bunny. This will only undo all the patient sitting you have done to gain his trust. A rabbit does not generally like to play "chase" with an animal that is thirty times his size. It is simply not natural behavior for him, and it is not a sign of low intelligence!
8. As the bunny gradually becomes less shy, you can become more familiar with him, stroking his back, letting him lie with his side pressed against your arm...whatever feels comfortable and natural to both of you. Many rabbits seem to find a face less threatening than a hand. Your bunny may gladly allow you to give him a warm "nose nuzzle" (especially if you hum very low and soft; this is the way rabbits sometimes communicate among themselves), even if he won't let your hand come close.
9. Once the bunny learns that you are a friend, he will bond very strongly to you. It's important to have him neutered (or her spayed, if it's a girl) once s/he reaches sexual maturity, because otherwise s/he'll want to make love to everything, including you--whatever appendages happen to be within reach. Spay/neuter will stop this behavior, and it will eliminate the very real risk of reproductive tract cancers in females. Spay/neuter will also make litterbox training easier and more reliable.
I hope you found this useful, please take into consideration rabbits are not a toy. They are a lifelong and loyal companion that add happiness to any family that seeks one for a lifetime.
Powered by Dana Krempels, Ph.D.
Breeds
Netherland DwarfThe most popular breed among house pets because of its tiny size. This breed is considered the smallest rabbit weighing only about one point nicne to two point five pounds. I would recommend this breed to a couple or someone living alone simply because of its small size and personality. They are more amiable when calling for them and crave being petted and not as handleled often. One thing to watch out for when being held by children is squeezing too hard but can be very amiable with love. All colors available.
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LionheadThe most popular breed in my rabbitry. They are known for their gorgeous mane and kitty appearance. This breed's ideal weight is between two to three and a half pounds full grown. Lionheads are super adorable and sweet. They love receiving attention from other animals as well as people. They're very friendly and require light grooming. These bunnies love to be playful and are fluffy all over their bodies equally. I make sure I breed double maned only. All colors available.
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Holland LopConsidered the smallest breed in the lop family. They come to weigh about three to four pounds as adults. They are knows for their droopy ears and "puppy-like" inquisitive personality. They are more hyper and love to stand on their feet for most of the time. They are very sweet and soft rabbits that crave for a child's attention. These buns love to lay on their back while cuddling and watching a movie. I consider this breed a good family pet. All colors available.
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Q & A
What Breed Do You Recommend For Children?
Growing up, I have been breeding all kinds of rabbits. From New Zealand's, Holland Lops, Dwarf Lionheads and Netherland Dwarfs. I strongly recommend in order Holland Lops, Dwarf Lionheads, Netherland Dwarfs lastly and New Zealand's. The reason I say this is because Dwarf Lionheads and Holland Lops are a great breed besides the mane and their curious personalities they have so much to offer to kids. They love to be held, the love to sit on your palm as well as lay on their backs. Netherland dwarfs are more chill personalities where they rather be petted and come to you than be picked up/handled for long periods of time. They love to roam around as well as stand up to be petted and will lick you. These breeds will automatically start purring with their teeth if petted and caressed correctly. Holland Lops are more adventurous and don't like to sit in one spot. They love to stand up a lot and when petted will more likely walk away. They are great for cuddling and around adolescents and older children. The New Zealand breed is beyond adventurous, they love to be petted and are great for bigger pets such as cats and dogs! Any rabbit will be a right rabbit when handling correctly. I will show you how to handle the bunny for years to come! Small children should definitely hold the bun when sitting down and petting is okay as long as it's in the head area. When picking up the bunny, the adult should always supervise so the bunny does not become traumatized and possibly hurt himself. Anyone and everyone that hold the bunny should be closely supervised for the bunnies health and years of trust and happiness.
Should I Get A Boy Or A Girl?
I often get asked this many times. If you have a rabbit already and would just like a companion a girl would be best. If you have a boy already, a spayed girl would be ideal. You can get a boy as well, but in my opinion and years of breeding I have heard that a female would be best. When getting a first pet, I have noticed my boys are sweeter, eat less, drink less and don't become as nippy as a female bun would when they hit sexual maturity. Unlike puppies, bunnies do not have a menstrual cycle. Just like people, the rabbit will respond to how he or she is treated. When having a senior bunny (4-8 months of age) you must build trust, love and provide nutrition and bunnies will love you back regardless their stage.
Can Rabbits Do Tricks?
Yes, rabbits like rats work with positive reinforcement. I myself took classes to be a vet savvy on rabbits, from administering shots, dewormers, GI Stasis, clickers, trimming and grooming them! You're interested in taking the class too? Contact me for more information, registrations are only $50-$75 per family.
Is This Cage Too Small? Big?
A perfect cage would be one that can be self-clean kept indoor and outdoor. Simply because the bunny can be kept indoors for most of the day and interaction will happen all the time. Sometimes when the bunnies responsibility is left to the child, he or she might forget to clean the cage and these self-clean cages will always keep them clean and disease-free. Wire allows the urine and poop fall through the squares straight into the pan. The pan can easily slide out, be dumped on the green bins or tossed on flowers and plants because it makes the BEST fertilizer you can have. A simply wash can do the trick and putting it back in the cage after a small sanitizing with sprays and liquids that are sold in stores or wipes. With a plastic mats their comfort level is above and beyond expectations. The cage or the hutch in terms of size should be about two to three times the bunnies length. But I recommend any cage thats 24 x 24 x 18. Something around those lines is perfect for the bunny.
Once Potty Training Begins, That Means I don't Have To Clean Anymore?
Once potty training takes its course you are one step closer to a very healthy happy rabbit. Nonetheless, it does not mean you don't have to clean after the bunny anymore? En contraire, it means it's easier for you to clean after because it all happens in one spot but you till have to do it daily. Remember, if your rabbit is clean your rabbit will be disease and infections free. However, if your bunny is just learning to be potty trained and he accidentally has poop and peed on his bottom and feet. You can wash them with warm water, dish washing soap or baby shampoo. If possible some baby wipes would be ideal.
Does Their Pee and Poop Smell Really Strong?
This solely depends on how often you clean the cage. Bunnies pee smells like something warm, it won't start smelling like ammonia until 3-5 days. By then the pee and poo should be cleaned before it gets to that. The rabbit's poo does not smell like anything. It's really hard little balls that will roll out of your hand when you grab them. To absorb the smell, I recommend wood shavings or pelletized bedding. If you ignore your bunnie's hygiene it can be really smelly and bad for the bunny itself. Also, by keeping their private area trimmed will prevent them from poop getting stuck to their fur, health issues and bad odor.
Are All Your Rabbits Potty Trained?
The answer is yes. All my older rabbits are all potty trained, the babies are potty trained in the 7-8th week they're born. Although accidents can occur, also when you take your bunny to a new environment he will most likely have an accident or two but it's due to stress. Within a week with practice and reinforcement the bunny will be potty trained. If this does happen, place the poop and urine into the litter box so the bun starts familiarizing with thats where he or she will go pee or poo.
Does My Rabbit Require Any Vaccines Or Vet Visits?
When you adopt from my rabbitry, your rabbit does not need any vaccinations or to see a vet because they are from U.S.A. Lines. Out of the country rabbits, will need vaccines simply because they are not as strict on preventing and vaccinating as the United States is. Although, if your bunny is sick or you would simply want to check the bunnies health you may do so at your own expense. The only breed that will require a vaccine or two would be the New Zealand, inquire within on where to get affordable shots for your pet.
Should I Spay/Neuter My Bunny? If So, Is It Expensive?
Spaying and Neutering is the best way to go! If you don't plan to ever breed your bunny, you want to pamper your bunny and have a really long happy bunny for years to come! Your bunny will be sweeter, get along with other bunnies, no signs of aggression, live 3-5 years longer, prevent them from cancers and infections. Why not? It's better to be safe than sorry. The surgery is is a very safe procedure with under 1% of death rate. It will only cost you an extra $0-$75 at the most to get your little guy or girl fixed. Contact me for a referral, vets will charge you $400-$500! If you decide to not fix, that is okay too. You're not doing anything wrong with not fixing them because you don't want them to not undergo surgery or breed. When a rabbit is bred, his or her behavior will change. Keep a close look.
How Often Should I Trim My Bunnie's Nails?
You may trim your bunnies nails as necessary. I personally do it every month, if you feel your bun's nails are getting sharper it's a sign it's time. Bunnies will have five front nails and 4 back nail on each of their foot. I safely use cat clippers because it's safe to grab the bunny and trim the ends as I demonstrated. You may also buy your personal grooming kit which include a cement filer, nail clipper and much more! Clipping their nails will prevent them and you from injuries and health issues. As accidents can happen, if you gotten to close and you see the tip of the nail is bleeding a little. Fell free to grab some safe powder to stop the bleeding. Other than nails, you can also groom your bunny. Lionheads need to be groomed regularly to keep their manes from matting. Rabbits will shed 2-3 times a year as well and frequent grooming will prevent them heavy molting. They don't need to be bathed, but wipes, damp towels or waterless shampoo can be used to replace bathing.
How Should I Pick Up My Bunny?
Bunny handling isn't hard at all, it's important to be sweet and gentle but firm and assertive. You want the bunny to know you are boss and that he or she is safe in your arms. Dropping the rabbit in a quick sudden is an immediate no-no. Rabbit just like any person like to feel a firm grip of the floor as opposed to being dangling in the air. When picking up the bunny, you can have the bunny facing you or not. Your left hand should go to their bottom and your right to supporting the back/head part. Once you have the bunny, you can slowly and safely place the bunny towards your chest, your upper arm or in your arms. The other way which is safe is to hold the bunny like a football. The rabbit's head should be under your arms while his feet are place on your forearms. There should be no squeezing just firmness in the bunnies body. Most importantly, a bunnies back should always be and feel protected at all times. It's the most fragile and sensitive part of their bodies.
Should My Bunny Get Toys?
Bunnies love toys. There's many great toy ideas for bunny online! I actually make a bunch myself on my free time with a little help from my furry bunny friends! You can also go to a feed store, pet store or supermarkets to get toys especially made for bunnies. Have fun shopping!
When Can I Feed Veggies/Fruits To My Bunny?
When your bunny arrives home, I suggest you stick mainly to hay for 2-3 days. Then slowly with the food I gave you, start feeding them for a day or so. After a day went by, start mixing my pellets with the feed you will feed him for years to come! Because bunnies have sensitive tummies, they should not be given fruit under any circumstance when babies. Slowly start feeding them veggies and as they get older fresh fruit may be given.
What's The Right Feed For My Bunny?
Anything high quality food is great for feeding your bunny. The most important thing is to make sure the bun is getting all important nutrients as well as accompanied by hay. Wooden chew toys and apple wooden branch must be given to prevent them from overgrown teeth and hay to keep their teeth filed down.
Can My Rabbit Pass Down A Disease To Me Or My Family?
With any given pet there are many possibilities one can catch a disease or infections from them. There are conditions you and your family must be aware of. Please do further research as I may be outdated.
